The Complete Glossary of Watchmaking

This A-to-Z guide covers essential terminology from the world of horology — from intricate components to watch styles and complications. Curated for Watchello customers, it serves both newcomers and enthusiasts alike.

A

  • A/h (Alternanze/ora) or VPH: Oscillations per hour of the balance wheel. Higher = more precise.
  • Analog Watch: Displays time with hands and hour markers.
  • Annual Calendar: Displays day/date/month; corrects automatically except in February.
  • Anti-magnetic: Resists magnetic field interference.
  • Aperture: Small dial window showing date, moon phase, etc.
  • Automatic Movement: Self-winds via wearer’s motion (rotor-powered).

B

  • Balance Wheel: Oscillating wheel regulating mechanical movement.
  • Barrel: Contains the mainspring.
  • Bezel: Ring around the crystal; can be functional (e.g., diving scale).
  • Bracelet: Metal link watch band.
  • Bridge: Holds movement parts in place over the mainplate.
  • Buckle: Fastens the strap (e.g., ardillon or deployant clasp).

C

  • Caliber: Designation or reference of a watch movement.
  • Case: Outer housing of the watch.
  • Case Back: Rear of the case, can be solid or transparent.
  • Chronograph: Stopwatch function with start/stop/reset pushers.
  • Chronometer: COSC-certified precision timepiece.
  • Complication: Any function beyond hours/minutes/seconds.
  • Crown: Sets time/date; winds the watch. Screw-down versions help water resistance.
  • Crystal: Transparent cover over the dial (acrylic, mineral, or sapphire).

D

  • Dial: Watch face where time and complications are displayed.
  • Diver's Watch: Built for underwater use, with high water resistance and rotating bezel.

E

  • Ébauche: Partially assembled movement to be finished by another manufacturer.
  • Escapement: Regulates energy release; produces ticking sound.
  • Exhibition Case Back: Transparent back showing movement details.

F

  • Flyback Chronograph: Resets and restarts stopwatch with one press.

G

  • Geneva Stripes: Decorative stripes on luxury movements.
  • GMT: Second timezone display (24-hour hand).
  • Guilloché: Fine engraved pattern often found on dials.

H

  • Hacking Seconds: Stops seconds hand for precise time setting.
  • Hairspring: Regulates oscillation of balance wheel.
  • Hand-Wound Movement: Needs manual winding to operate.
  • Horology: The craft/science of watchmaking.
  • Hour Markers: Indices or numerals on the dial.

J

  • Jewels: Synthetic rubies reducing friction in moving parts.

L

  • Lugs: Connect case to strap/bracelet.
  • Lume: Glows in the dark—applied to hands/indices.

M

  • Mainplate: Base of the movement.
  • Mainspring: Stores energy to power the watch.
  • Manufacture: Brand that makes in-house movements.
  • Moon Phase: Shows current phase of the moon.
  • Movement: Internal engine driving the watch.

P

  • Perlage: Decorative pattern of overlapping circles.
  • Perpetual Calendar: Adjusts automatically for month lengths/leap years.
  • Power Reserve: Time watch runs fully wound.
  • Pusher: Button used for complications (e.g., chronograph).

Q

  • Quartz Movement: Battery-powered, ultra-precise movement.

R

  • Rattrapante: Split-seconds chronograph with dual timing hands.
  • Retrograde: Hand travels an arc and resets instantly.
  • Rotor: Semi-circular weight winding automatic movements.

S

  • Sapphire Crystal: Synthetic, scratch-resistant dial cover.
  • Skeleton Watch: Movement is exposed, often decoratively finished.
  • Small Seconds: Seconds shown on a separate sub-dial.
  • Strap: Leather, rubber, or fabric band.
  • Swiss Made: Indicates compliance with Swiss origin standards.

T

  • Tachymeter: Measures speed over known distance.
  • Tourbillon: Rotating cage improving accuracy by offsetting gravity.

W

  • Water Resistance: Protection against water intrusion (e.g., 30m, 100m).
  • Winding: Manual or automatic tightening of the mainspring.

Need help choosing the right watch or learning more? Our team is here to guide you—just contact Watchello Support.