Ginault Ocean Rover Blue Gold | Watch Talk

Ginault Ocean Rover Blue Gold Here is a video and many photos of the Ginault Ocean Rover Blue Gold, one of the newest variations from the Ginault Brand. I did a full review on and video on the first Ocean Rover released and also a follow up video with a slightly different variation. The point of this third video and follow up is more about how I am trying to understand the company, their intentions, the controversy surrounding the brand and does it warrant the asking price they are charging at $1,399 USD. Realistically it is not my place or any reviewers place to tell anyone if a watch is worth the price. It is after all only our opinion. And we all know opinions vary. I almost never reviewed the first Ginault model because of all the issues surrounding it, but then curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to see what the watch was really like. I go over many different things in the video and alternate points of view. This is a brand and a watch that is always going to have its detractors, mainly because of the closeness in look to a Rolex ; the simple fact is some watch enthusiasts hate homage or copy watches. For those that like/love them, as I have said many times, it is a very well built watch and probably the best built Rolex Sub homage on the market. Their claims are something I can not prove, and I have never defended what the company states. I do however think that sometimes we all (myself included) jump to conclusions without all the facts. In this case, I think Ginault can benefit from a little more transparency or showing some of their facilities that they claim to make their watches and maybe as a consumer we should not always be so quick to condemn and say ” You are lying”. I would never tell anyone to buy any watch. I may have in the past, and that was wrong. As a reviewer it is my job to present the watch in the best way I can and give my opinion on quality and price and leave it at that. It is up to you, the reader, the consumer, the buyer. to look into it and do your research and see if any watch or product is worth it for the price. I have no idea what Ginault’s long term plans are, but I hope in the future maybe we will see some original designs and they will be manufactured here in the US. That would be great. As it stands now, it is an expensive, well made homage and the Ginault Ocean Rover Blue Gold is another great looking example. The old saying in the watch community is “Buy what you like and like what you buy”. That is the same with any product. Ginault can make a hell of a watch no doubt, and if you think it is worth it, I think you would enjoy it for the quality that it is.

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Armand Nicolet J09 | Watch Review

Armand Nicolet J09 Armand Nicolet is a brand that I know in name, but not overly familiar with their watches. It is not one that I see the watch community post about on social media, such as Instagram or Facebook Watch groups often. After receiving this model for review, the Armand Nicolet J09 Day/Date, I honestly had to wonder why this brand has not been getting the love it deserves currently. Now, keep in mind, I am saying that I have not personally seen a lot of mention of their watches, it does not mean you haven’t, they could have just not been on my radar for some reason. They definitely are now though. For those not familiar, the Armand Nicolet brand has been around since 1902, and was named after its founder. In 1988, the brand was sold by Willy Nicolet, the founders son, and though not family owned anymore, they have continued making watches in Switzerland, with designs being done in Italy. Armand Nicolet J09 Day/Date Specifications: Mechanical automatic movement with Day&Date functions. Calibre AN2846-9. Guilloché dial with luminous indexes and hands. Case with antiglare treated sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal in the see-through screwed back. Case and Buckle: Stainless Steel 316L Water Resistance: 5 ATM Diameter: 41mm Thickness: 12.5mm Lug Width: 24mm Lug to Lug: 50mm Strap: Stainless Steel 316L MSRP: $2700 USD http://www.armandnicolet.com/collections/j09/day-date/watch-d650aaa-gr-pi4650na/ If you have not watched the video yet, you may notice I show it on both a bracelet and a rubber strap here in the photos. That is because I had the company send the rubber strap as well, to show some of the ways the Armand Nicolet J09 Day/Date can be configured. There are just way too many options for this model for me to list, but you can purchase them with either a bracelet, leather strap or rubber strap, and depending on what you choose, you can pick up one of the other straps as well, at an extra cost. Depending on what you choose, it really does change the look of the watch from sporty to dressy and somewhat industrial looking on the bracelet. The Armand Nicolet J09 Day/Date is an interesting watch, for many reasons. First, the size at 41mm, yet it has a 24mm lug width, something rarely seen on a watch this diameter. If you have a small wrist or like a smaller watch, this can be deciving. It really wears like a round 43mm would wear. For myself, I love the size, it is in right in between that small and large. It would be a medium if we sized watches like we do shirts. On my 7 1/2 inch wrist it is damn near perfect, and I still have not decided if I like it better on the bracelet or the rubber strap, but more on that in a bit. As I spoke about in my last review, if a watch is going to have a date, I prefer it to be at the 6 o’clock position. Obviously, the Armand Nicolet J09 Day/Date is perfect for me in terms of date position. The guilloché  dial is something that I love in a watch such as this, it is that something extra that stands out on an otherwise basic dial. Even with the day and date, the dial is fairly clean, and applied markers keep it classy. One thing that has perplexed me with the Armand Nicolet J09, is that I do not know what category to lump it into. It is not a dive watch of course, nor a pilot or field watch. It is not a traditional dress watch, even though with either the bracelet or an alligator leather strap it can surely play the role. It is not your typical sport watch, even though the rubber strap does give it that sporty feel. I guess I would call it dress casual. The type of watch that can be dressed up for the office and dressed down for the weekend when going to your favorite pub. The very low water resistance prevents it from being an all around do everything type of watch, but if you are not regularly jumping into the pool or ocean mid day, you should be fine with this on the wrist. The heart of the Armand Nicolet J09 is the Calibre AN2846-9, which is basically an ETA 2846 automatic movement that has been customized with a beautiful rotor. While this movement is not an in-house masterpiece, it is not a movement you see used all the time, and Armand Nicolet has dressed it up for sure. This is how I like a movement to look if it has an exhibition case back.  A bracelet has to be well made and very comfortable for me to want to wear these days. I almost always prefer a strap, as many readers might know. I have gone back and forth on this, and while the rubber strap has a very nice deployant clasp, I think the winner is the bracelet. It is very nicely brushed, has a beautiful buckle with a stamped logo and just flows with the watch head perfectly. One word of caution though, the Armand Nicolet J09 uses double headed screw bars, and they are very, very tiny screws. And you will need two screwdrivers to size as well. I would suggest sizing over a clean table and not in a room that has carpet, as you some in your household might think you have a case of turrets if one rolls off the table into the sea of fibers. Of course, one of the biggest things when reviewing a watch, is the price. At $2700, there is no denying that the price is up there and that a lot of other watches can be considered at this price point. The 15% discount does make it more appealing, and while the movement is not in house or anything, it is nicely decorated and is a solid Swiss ETA that should give no issues. The styling of the Armand Nicolet J09 Day/Date is unique, and when looking at google images and bringing up past versions of this model, they have definitely upgraded it, in terms of dial and hands aesthetic. With a low water resistance and a non screw down crown, it is not going to be that one watch for all occasions, but I think if someone wanted to put something dressy in their collection, but does not go for the standard dress style watch, this might be a good way to go.

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Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue | Watch Review

Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue The name Favre Leuba has been around since 1737. It is the second oldest watch brand, in name, ever. I can go on an on about their history, but that can be easily googled. The brand has changed hands a few times since going defunct in the 1970’s, but was purchased by Titan Co. Ltd in 2011. It took a few years to bring the company back from the ashes, but late last year, Favre Leuba rose again and started producing models that are reminiscent of some of the iconic pieces from the 60’s. The model in for review, the Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue is a combination of new and old, combining elements of their original diver, the Deep Blue, and using improved materials such as sapphire crystals, high beat automatic movements and well made stainless bracelets and rubber straps. This is definitely a watch that has got my attention, and for good reason. Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue Specifications: 44mm stainless steel case 52mm lug to lug 14mm thick 24mm lug width Aluminum Bezel Insert Sapphire Crystal Sellita SW200 Automatic Movement Rubber Strap or Stainless Bracelet Retail Price $2500 http://favre-leuba.com/ Vintage is the new black as they say. No, wait, that is Orange is the new Black. And that’s a tv show. Well, vintage is for sure in when it comes to watches, and I for one, consider that a good thing. The styles of the 60’s and 70’s are popular for a reason, there were a lot of fantastic looking watches produced at this time, especially when it comes to dive watches. As I stated above, this Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue is a throwback of sorts to the company’s first dive watch, the Deep Blue, and the Bathy 160, both pictured below. Familiar elements are easy to see and the basic case shape is represented in this new model. One thing that is noticeably different is the disk on that dial that functions as the second hand on this model. One of their other models, the Harpoon, utilizes this disk as an hour hand in a very unique way. The Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue is a little more traditional than its big brother for telling the time.   You can see other similarities between the vintage and new models with the applied markers, shape of the minute hand and the brand name font and logo. I did some research but could not find a dive model from them that had crown guards such as the ones on this Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue, so that might be an element added to this new production. As I stated in the video, I do wish the screw down crown was larger or had more grooves to it, as it is hard to grip, especially for someone with bigger hands. My only other gripe would be that you can really only turn the bezel by grabbing it with your fingers placed at 9 and 2, due to the case design. These are the only two issues I have found with this watch, and both are minor issues in my opinion. Looking at the case design, you might be thinking that this watch is uncomfortable, or does not sit on the wrist properly. I thought the same thing when I first pulled it from the amazing packaging (Check the video). I could not have been more wrong. For my 7 1/2 inch wrist, this is one of the most comfortable watches I have reviewed in a long time. Most watches I review are comfortable in their own right, but this Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue wraps around my wrist so well, it is a watch I just did not want to take off. It might actually be one of the most comfortable watches I have worn period. Obviously this is going to depend on the shape of your wrist, I would consider mine to be fairly flat. The branded rubber strap is another reason the Raider Deep Blue is so comfortable. This rubber is right up there with some of the best rubber straps available on the market. If you are not a fan of rubber, fret not, a beautiful stainless bracelet is also available. The blue hue used on the dial and aluminum bezel is not your standard blue, and I think that is one of the reasons it stands out to me so much. It is definitely more of a blue/green and is a striking color for sure. If for some reason it is not tripping your trigger, there is a version with a black dial and orange accents. I actually requested the black/orange model for review but there was a mix-up in communication and the blue was sent instead, and I could not be more happy for said mix-up. These days most dive watches are moving to ceramic or sapphire coated bezel inserts due to their scratch resistance, but Favre Leuba went old school and used aluminum. I am glad they did. It gives it that vintage flair and the texture seen on the bezel is something that can not be attained using other materials. Remember when I said that I only found two issues with the Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue? Well, I guess I fibbed a little. The third issue would be the seconds disk. It functions just fine, but usability is not sublime in my opinion, as it is just a short arrow and accurately measuring time is hindered. The look is cool no doubt, but I find the seconds disk to be more gimmick than useful. While it does not state on the website what movement is used in this model, I have confirmed it is the Sellita SW200 movement. As with most readily available movements, the SW200 has been discussed in depth here on Watchreport. It is a Swiss movement, essentially a clone of the ETA 2824 and has been used in countless brands from Oris, to Tag Heuer and more. The BGW9 lume is more than adequate, and one of the unique features that you do not see until the watch is in the dark is the lume under the seconds disc, which shows through the cutouts. It has no real purpose, but it is something a little different and noteworthy. Lately, there has been a few watch brands that have gone under or have sold or partnered with other watch brands to stay afloat, so it is quite an undertaking for someone to relaunch a defunct brand. Sure, Favre Leuba was a big name decades ago, but they will have an uphill battle in this marketplace. As far as the Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue, I do love the design and overall the I feel the watch is superb. I mentioned a few quibbles and with all things being even, the price is probably slightly high, but I can not deny how unique this model is, something that is hard to attain these days. The Raider Deep Blue is obviously paying homage to its past models, though it is not a straight copy of those either, nor it is a copy of anything else currently on the market. The look is there, the quality is there, but only time will tell if the current form of Favre Leuba is here to stay or just another flash in the pan. I hope it is the former, as I look forward to see what they produce in the years to come.

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Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 | Watch Review

Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 It still amazes me when I come across a brand I have not heard of. That would be the case with the Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 Series. I had to do some research, unlike some brands that I review, as I knew absolutely nothing about this brand. That of course makes reviewing it a little difficult. Yes, I have the watch in hand, so I can obviously see if it is quality or not, but where is Dreyfuss and Co. from, how long have they been in business? Well, it turns out the Dreyfuss and Co. has been around since 1890. At least that is when the brand was started. Today they are owned by the Rotary Group. It would seem the brand has changed hands a few times through the years, and honestly it is odd that a brand that has been around for so long is not really talked about much. Much like any other brand that seems to fall off the map, that seems to be due to marketing, or lack thereof. My contact for Eterna reached out to me and asked if I would like to review this new model from Dreyfuss and Co. I could see instantly it was an homage to a Zenith Pilot and that it was Swiss Made, so I said yes. Unfortunately this model is not listed on their website currently, which made me scratch my head a little. Nonetheless, I do have all the info on the model and how to order, as again, head-scratcher, the Dreyfuss website is not set up for E-commerce. Listed below in the specifications is an email you can use to order directly, if you are so inclined. Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 Series Specifications: Dimensions: 44mm case 12mm thick 22mm lug width 51mm lug to lug Eterna Calibre 39 Mechanical Movement Sapphire Crystal Screw Down Crown Alligator Embossed Leather Strap Retail Price $1450 USD To order, Email Dreyfussenquiries@rotarywatches.com I want to get right into the heart of the Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 Series, the Eterna Calibre 3902M movement. This is part of the Eterna 39 series movements, which from the base over 88 movement references are now being produced. This is an in-house movement with a power reserve of 65 hours. For some that have seen the previews, Eterna is releasing a bronze Kontiki at Baselworld this year, that will house the automatic version of this same movement. Winding is smooth as silk on my example and to be able to get a watch such as this with a quality movement from a respected brand such as Eterna is quite nice. There is an obvious relationship between Dreyfuss and Co and Eterna, so it seems they are able to put these movements in watches that others would probably charge more for. It is a great movement in my opinion, and if nothing else, nice to see something different than the standard ETA or Sellita. At 44mm the Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 is modest in size for a pilot watch, especially for this style. Most pilot watches like this are in the 46-48mm range. Because of the super high gloss black enamel dial,  high polished accents on the case and crown, and with the alligator patterned leather strap it can easily work as a dress watch. While I know its inspiration is a pilot watch, it does not scream pilot watch, at least to me. Because it is only 12mm thick, this should easily be able to fit under most dress cuffs and I think would look quite suitable at the office or at a function when you need to pull out the nice duds. I love the enamel dial of the Dreyfuss and Co. 1924. It is always interesting to me how your tastes change over the years, but they almost always do, and while years ago I did not like a glossy dial such as this, now I gaze at it over and over and I am enamored with how you can see the reflection of the hands and markers in the dial. Speaking of the markers, large Arabic numerals are at play here with polished chrome borders. The numerals are applied and quite thick, and because we all need to see what time it is when we can’t wait to leave our spouses late night office party at the bar we would never otherwise frequent, they are filled with copious amounts of lume. You know how I tend to complain about useless boxes and packaging that you will just throw in a closet to take up space, only to be seen again if and when you decide to sell or give the watch away? Well, the Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 presentation box is one that you will want to use, if not have on display. It is a massive lacquered wood box that holds 5 watches. This box is almost furniture grade. I am not sure how much this box cost to manufacture and if they could have sold the watch even cheaper had they went with something more standard, but to be honest, if more brands gave you a storage box such as this with your watch, I would not complain at all. If I was to change a few things with the Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 Series it would be that you need two screwdrivers to remove the strap; one piece threaded screw bars are much easier to remove and also they usually lessen the chance of stripping the screw heads. Also, no tools are included in the packaging. The other thing would be that the leather strap is black. I know, that is so highly subjective, but for me, a glossy brown Horween or even a brown alligator pattern leather would look so much better. I have a thing for black dials and brown straps. It just looks luxurious to me. Still, the leather strap is pretty nice, and it fits my 7 ½ inch wrist comfortably. LUME As I stated in the beginning, there is no doubt the inspiration for the Dreyfuss and Co. 1924 Series. It is an homage, and that is a little strange as it is weird to see a Swiss Company that has so much heritage and past models of its own it can use for inspiration. Be that as it may, Dreyfuss and Co. has produced a beautiful watch with a great movement for a relatively affordable price point. The watch is quality through and through and to be honest, I would not have been shocked if I was told it was $2000. I am not sure why this brand is not marketing their new product more, I mean this model is not even on the website! Looking through it, I only found two dealers listed on their website as well, both in England. They need to start selling through their website direct or start getting these out to more distributors. As for the watch, if you like the style, it is tight, as the young kids say. Actually I have no idea what the young kids say, because to them, a 36 year old might as well be 80. That aside, it’s a hell of a watch, and if any of you end up ordering one, I would love to know your thoughts on it. Peace out. (Total 90’s reference).

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MJ Leather Swiss Ammo Strap | Review

MJ Leather Swiss Ammo Strap

I love leather straps, though they are something we have not reviewed much here on Watchreport. Even more than just regular leather straps, I love custom made, or higher end straps, as they are normally thicker, handmade an…

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DELTAt Sora WWII | Watch Review

DELTAt Sora WWII DELTAt Sora WWII Specifications: 44mm x 52mm stainless brushed case 10.8mm thick 22mm lug width Seiko Automatic Movement Cal. NH35 10mm diameter pumpkin shaped crown Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflection coating Water Resistant: 200m/660ft (20ATM) Water Resistant Tool-Less-strap-changing system One set of WWII style genuine leather straps One set of 90/130mm crazy horse […]

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DELTAt Sora WWII | Watch Review

DELTAt Sora WWII DELTAt Sora WWII Specifications: 44mm x 52mm stainless brushed case 10.8mm thick 22mm lug width Seiko Automatic Movement Cal. NH35 10mm diameter pumpkin shaped crown Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflection coating Water Resistant: 200m/660ft (20ATM) Water Resistant Tool-Less-strap-changing system One set of WWII style genuine leather straps One set of 90/130mm crazy horse […]

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DELTAt Sora WWII | Watch Review

DELTAt Sora WWII DELTAt Sora WWII Specifications: 44mm x 52mm stainless brushed case 10.8mm thick 22mm lug width Seiko Automatic Movement Cal. NH35 10mm diameter pumpkin shaped crown Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflection coating Water Resistant: 200m/660ft (20ATM) Water Resistant Tool-Less-strap-changing system One set of WWII style genuine leather straps One set of 90/130mm crazy horse […]

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Grand Seiko SBGM021 Automatic GMT Hands-On Review

Grand Seiko SBGM021 Automatic GMT Hands-On Review

Grand Seiko SBGM021 The Grand Seiko SBGM021 is not a new model. Actually, it has been in the collection for a couple of years already. However, I had a closer look at it while I was in Japan and have admired it ever since. In fact, my interest was sparked even more when I saw […]

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